“As my artist’s statement explains, my work is utterly incomprehensible and is therefore full of deep significance”
Gujarat is located on the Western coast of India. It is home to a varied range of ethnic communities, most maintaining traditional dress and craft, including weaving, dyeing, printing, bandhani, embroidery, leather work, pottery, wood work and metal work.
ARTS & CRAFTS IN GUJARAT
PRODUCT COLLECTION
CRAFT IN GUJARAT
Craft in gujarat was already highly developed 4000 years ago, when the people of the Indus Valley Civilization made earthen pots & terracotta beads. Around the 1st c. AD Gujarat traded a variety of goods & exported fine textiles to the world. Over the centuries traders, seafarers and each invader introduced new ideas that influenced the creative expression if the local Crafts people.
From the early civilizations, Gujarat is home to handicraft traditions. The presence of a kiln at Lothal, one of the sites of the ancient Indus Valley civilization, indicates that pottery was a well-established craft in the state. Some of the oldest and the best textiles that were in great demand in West and Southeast Asia were created in Gujarat. A visit to Gujarat, however fleeting, is replete with images of colorful and fascinating textiles, elaborately carved wooden and stone jharokhas and beautiful handcrafted silver jewelry. In Gujarat it is customary for a bride to have exquisite hand embroidered ghagras, odhnis, animal covers, bags, quilts and house decorations as part of her trousseau.
Gujarat is a beautiful state of India, and is well known for its rich tradition and culture. The history and cultural practices of this State have sustained all odds. People here, still cherish their immemorial practices and happily pass on the message from one generation to the other.
The exclusive handworks exhibit the craftsmanship of the people. These works are quite famous all over the world. The craftsmen still follow the conventional method in designing their art work, and this is what makes their work quite unique. The handicraft industry in Gujarat has contributed to the economic development of the state. Some of their craftwork includes metalwork, jewelries, hand and machine embroidery works, clay items, furniture, handmade durries or carpets, and stone crafts. Jamnagar another city of Gujarat is quite popular for its brass industry.
Since ages, Gujarat has always been famous for its culture and craftworks. The artist here can still be seen designing crafts and others in the same manner as it used to done in earlier days. In fact they are proud of such tradition and have passed the skills from one generation to the other. In earlier times, these crafts were mainly used for domestic purposes. However, its popularity has earned it fame in the international market. These days, the artists try creative ideas and innovatively design different products that can be sold both in national and international market. The list of handmade items designed by these artists is endless.
Every craft, irrespective of their size will mesmerize the onlookers. The furniture, metal-work items, jewelry, hand crafted garments, crafted leather works, bead and mirror works, baked clay works, and many others are worth buying. The furniture works of Gujarat is famous all over the country. If you are considering a make-over to home furniture then have a look at some of the furniture works. Besides the magnificently designed cushion covers, quilts, tablemats, and bedcovers are exported to different parts of the world. The designs are simple and attractive. Every artist use different types of colors that make it look all more marvelous. No doubt, this rich tradition makes Gujarat a famous and the most loved State of the country. Every art work reflects the creativity, cultural practices, and love of people towards color and life.
MUD Craft :
Clay craft is ingrained deeply into Gujarat’s ancient tradition and since then has continued to enchant the world. Gujarat is known for its Terracotta, mud mirror work which has both scared as well as aesthetic appeal. The wet clay molded in different shapes and sizes is an, artistic expression of the vision and correlation of the society. Clay craft is also known in Gujrat as Contemprary Mud work in which, attractive wall pieces with small mirrors are made in Kutch and Kheda districts of Gujarat. Traditional clay utensils like pots, Tawadi, Plates, Bowls etc.,with hand paintings are made in Kutch district. Votive Terracotta is famous of the tribals from Chhota Udaipur.
CLAY RELEIF WORK – BHIRANDIYARA, DHORDO, HODKA, LUDHIYA:
Every year before diwali, some communities in Kachchh plaster their bhungas with lipan, which is than embellished with mirror & okli (textures created by hand imprints). Artisians also use the local clay to mold intricate designs of people, flower, animals, & geomatic motifs along the walls, doors & windows. In some villages this clay work is combined with the beautigul paintings in minarals rock colors on the exterior of the huts. .
PAINTED POTTERY – KHAVDA, LODAI, BHUJ:
Pottery skills in gujarat date from the Indus Valley Civilization. Like all traditional handicraft, the subtleties of pottery change from village to village. Each vessel is shaped by hand or on wheel, backed in the sun coated with a thin wash of geru. The potter’s wife uses a frayed bamboo twig to paint various motifs in clay-based black & white color. The piece is than fired in a kiln to set the colors.
TERRACOTTA – CHHOTA UDEPUR, DEVGAD BARIA, PATAN, POSHINA:
Many tribal communities place cluster of hand-crafted terracotta animals, such as elephants, camels, & horses, at their places of workship. Each region has its own distinct styles of figures, terracotta ware lined with lacquer is also used to store food & tadi, local liquor.
TEXTILES
Popularly termed as the textile state of India, Gujarat has one of the most flourishing textile industries in the country. Also said to be the Manchester of the East and the Denim Capital of India the textile industry in Gujarat contributes almost 3% towards the GDP of India. India holds a major portion of global textile market share. Textiles in Gujarat are responsible for contributing a major share of India’s art and crafts.
It is also among the oldest industries in the state. Due to its perfect combination of skilled labor, vast variety of raw materials, seamless blend of yarns and the use of traditional techniques the state produces the finest range of textiles.
One of the major factors behind the success of the textile industry in Gujarat is that the state has managed to preserve its old tradition and culture.
The textile industry in Gujarat involves quite a sizable chunk of the population. Brands like Arvind Mills, Parag and Praful belong to Gujarat. More than 90% of the polyester used in India is produced in Surat. The two major textile manufacturing cities in Gujarat are Ahmedabad and Surat. Both these cities together account for almost 50% of the total textiles produced in Gujarat.
AJRAKH PAINTING DHAMADHKA, KHA
Block painting technique, a shared heritage if Kachchh in Gujarat & Sindhi in Pakistan, creates intricate geometric designs in shades of madder red, natural rust, black, & indigo among other natural dyes. Indigo is believed to have a natural cooling and warming effect depending on the season, as important feature in semi-desert regions. Ajrakh is a meticulas techniques that involves 16 different processes. The resulting pieces retains a beautiful depth of color otherwise impossible with surface printing alone. Traditionally, the men of Maldhari, Ahir & Meghwal communities used Ajrakh prints for their lungi, headscraves & shoulder throws.
Bandhej – Bhuj, Jamnagar, Mandvi, Mundra: is the name given to the tie and dye fabric of Jamnagar, Mandvi and Bhuj. The art of bandhej is known for its typical designs and patterns. These are often used in wedding outfits when they are called gharchola odhni and sarees.
Bandhani – the tie and dye fabrics – has an international demand and is widely exported from Gujarat. These colorful ripple-round print fulfills both style and comfort statements for Indian women. Bandhani or Bandhej of Jamangar, Mandvi and Bhuj are specifically acclaimed all over the world. Among all the bandhanis the one made up with ‘Jamadani’ technique and produced in the superfine cotton ‘mulmul’ muslin is most famous. ‘Jamadani’ can also be a mixture of gold checks and thematic art.
In the earlier period, dye colors were extracted from plants and flowers. During that time, Sarkhei suburb situated near Ahmedabad was one of the leading indigo producing as well as exporting centers of Gujarat.
The maximum concentration of bandhej dyeing is in Kutch. Nevertheless there is a substantial volume of quality work from Jamnagar and Saurashtra, lying on the southern coast of Gulf of Kutch.
You must be very eager to know how this special art is done. Here are the steps:
The cost of the bandhej of Gujarat rests not only on the quality of the fabric, but also on the number of times it has to be tied and dyed as well as the intricacy of the pattern.
You can have a piece of bandhej from the State Government Emporium of Gujarat known as the ‘Gurjari’ or any other outlet. If you are really keen to know about the making of the art please walk into the villages where you will find people, both men as well as women are equally busy with their work on bandhej.
Rogan printing – Nirona:
The Rogan art of painting is an ancient art over three hundred years old. The traditional Rogan flower motifs and designs speak of a Persian influence and the word Rogan itself means oil-based in Persian. Today, Nirona in Kutch is the only place where this work is created. When castor oil is heated over fire for more than twelve hours and cast into cold water, it produces a thick residue called rogan, which is mixed with natural colours obtained from the earth. With a six-inch wooden stick or pen, the craftperson then draws out from this a fine thread which is painted to the cloth. Rogan painting is delicately and precisely painted from one’s own creative imagination and is done with total concentration sitting on the floor without using a table-frame or any outline. Rogan painted cloth is used for making pillow covers, tablecloths, wall hangings, file folders, decorative pieces and even saris.
Rogan printing is an art of cloth printing practiced in the Kutch District of Gujarat.
Rogan printing involves using a thick bright paste to paint on plain cloth. The paste is prepared by boiling the oil of safflower, castor or linseed and pouring it into water. This paste is mixed with chalk, coloured pigment and a binding agent to form a thick dye. The painting on the cloth is done using a stick, a rod or a metal block. Yellow, blue and red are the most frequently used colours.
Geometric and floral designs are most common. Stylish results can be achieved using the most ordinary cloth. Rogan-printed cloth is used for saris, wall-hangings and curtains, among other uses.
Rogan art is a rare craft that is not well known even in India. Because of its rare qualities, its practiced by only one family in India and they reside in Nirona village in Gujarat. Most of the other artisans have lost their art as it was not passed on during partition or lost from generation to generation. Rogan art is currently the bread earner for a family of Khatris. Gafoorbhai Khatri is the head of this family and he has kept the art alive by ensuring his entire family learns and practices his life’s work. He is a National award winner and is currently in the process of opening a school that teaches Rogan art to children from different families. He has not marketed his creativity through any distribution channels.
In Gujarat, Nirona, Khavada and Chaubari were the hubs of Rogan art and bustling with its practitioners till a few years ago but not any more.
The rich tradition of Rogan painting began some centuries ago among the Khatris, a Muslim community who trace their origin to Sindh.
The other Khatri craftsmen gave up their ancestral craft after it stopped yielding good returns and switched over to other jobs but not this particular family.
The eight male members — all of whom have State and National awards to their credit — in the joint Khatri family are experts of their craft and produce eclectic items like wall-hangings, pillow covers, table cloths bearing imagery which combines influences of Persian miniatures and local folk art, mainly for the international market. A lot of tourists who visit the village also pick up stuff from them.
The exposure tourism brought gradually led to an increase in demand. And the family now even runs a unit employing outsiders, with a hope to make their products available in the market.
“The products are not easily available and those who want to buy it have to come to the family in Nirona,” points out Sumar.
Recently the family, with the support of an organisation, has trained 60 women out of which some are employed with the Khatris and a few have been absorbed elsewhere.”
Marking a departure from the age-old tradition, the women have entered what was the reserve of the men folk.
HAND BLOCK PRINTING – AHMEDABAD, DHAMADHKA, JETPUR, KHAVDA:
Gujarat is birth place of India’s oldest printed textiles. In block painting, the artisan first mixes the dye, dips the block in the color and then neatly impresses it in an ordered sequences on the fabric. The fabric is processed with a chemical wash to bind the final color. Today chemical color have replaced most natural dyes.
Gujarat is birth place of India’s oldest printed textiles. In block painting, the artisan first mixes the dye, dips the block in the color and then neatly impresses it in an ordered sequences on the fabric. The fabric is processed with a chemical wash to bind the final color. Today chemical color have replaced most natural dyes.
Salwar suits, shirts, kurtas, jackets, skirts, sarees, dupattas, dress-materials, furnishings like bed-covers, pillow covers, table cloth, napkin set, curtains are some of the items made with unique hand block printing.
EMBROIDERY – ACROSS KACHCHH, SAURASHTRA & NORTH GUJARAT
There are several embroidery techniques of Gujarat that are very famous. Different communities in Gujarat have their own distinct style of embroidery. The Mochi community in Gujarat specializes in chain-stitch embroidery on leather and they make attractive embroidered leather shoes. These shoes are very much in demand in the modern fashion world. Animals as well as Persian and Mughal motifs feature prominently in their embroidery. The Ahir and Rabari communities specialize in embroidery using vibrantly colored threads and mirrors on black fabric and other dark-colored surfaces.
The Kathi community of Saurashtra specializes in a form of embroidery which is popularly known as Kathi embroideryï. Another form of embroidery commonly done by the Mochi community is bead work. The Jats of Kutchh use beads, mirrors and colorful threads to create beautiful designs on fabric. This type of embroidery is popularly known as Heer Bharatï. The women of the Lohana community in Banni have their own unique style of embroidery. The Mutwa community living in Banni has perfected almost all the styles of embroidery. These forms of embroidery have been passed on from generation to generation. The girls in these communities are taught embroidery at a very early age by their mothers and usually, they embroider their own wedding dresses. Several villages of Gujarat excel in producing beautiful, embroidered shawls.
Mata ni Pachedi – Ahmedabad (Mirzapur & Vasna): Matani or more popularly called Matani Pechedi or Mata-ni-pachedi are made by the Vaghris for the purpose of various rituals. They employ a combination of block printing for the outline of the pattern as well as the painting of the mordants.
The Matani is actually a tribute to the Mother Goddess Durga. Hence the dominant motif is essentially of the Goddess Durga in her several forms and aspects.
Goddess Durga is the symbol of ‘shakti’ or ‘strength’. She is worshiped all over the state of Gujarat with overwhelming faith and sincerity. The Gujaratis believe firmly that the Goddess will recover them from all the dangers and adversities in life. In the art of Matani in Gujarat, Devi Durga has been depicted in various forms which include her pleasant as well as ‘Rudra Rupa’ or the violent form. The former symbolizes wealth and prosperity whereas the latter indicates violence whereby the Goddess kills Ashuras or the evil power and restores peace.
Like any other art and craft, Matani portrays the face of the society. It evidently illustrates the religious inclinations of the Gujaratis particularly towards Devi Durga which is quite obvious from the fabulous way they celebrate the ‘Navaratri’.
Matani reflects a passion among the Gujaratis for colors and a vision for the intricate designs and forms. It is the expression of an artistic personality as well as rich cultural heritage.
Ahmedabad is a major center of traditional as well as contemporary textiles. You can find here Mata-ni-pachedi narrative cloth paintings and block-printing. While in Ahmedabad visit the Calico Museum of Textiles. Here you will find the exclusive collection of Gujarati traditional fabrics.
Mashru – Weaving : Patan
While not as famous as Patola, nor unique to Patan, Mashru weaving is also a craft worth observing. The fabric is woven in vibrant colors from silk and cotton threads, in a satin weave, with silk on the outer face of the piece, and cotton worn close to the body. It was initially only used by Muslim men because the Islamic law prohibited pure silk, but Hindu communities too began using it later. It is used by women in some Kutchi communities to stitch garments for their dowry, and was also exported to Turkey and the Middle East. When the export market fell, the cheaper rayon replaced Mashru. Once made throughout India, including Bhuj and Surat in Gujarat, today it is woven in only a few places. There is now a revival project taking place in Tankwada ni Pol, where a group of Mashru weavers are returning to traditional designs and quality.
Gujarat is also famous for its Mashruï fabric, which is a blend of silk and cotton. It is weaved in such a way that the cotton comes in contact with the skin while the silk remains on the surface. This fabric was initially used by Muslims, who were not allowed to wear pure silk. Mashru is produced in many places in India, but Mashru from Gujarat has bold patterns and colors which lend it a certain uniqueness. In todays times, however, this fabric has been replaced by cheap quality products that look similar.
Gujarat is also famous for its Mashruï fabric, which is a blend of silk and cotton. It is weaved in such a way that the cotton comes in contact with the skin while the silk remains on the surface. This fabric was initially used by Muslims, who were not allowed to wear pure silk. Mashru is produced in many places in India, but Mashru from Gujarat has bold patterns and colors which lend it a certain uniqueness. In todays times, however, this fabric has been replaced by cheap quality products that look similar.
NAMDA – BHUJODI, MUNDRA:
Handmade woolen sheets ornamented with customary embroidery are in great use for hospitality purposes in Gujarat. Namda is a traditional floor covering, used during get-togethers, repasts, rituals and other social functions. It is known that the artisans of Kutch eventually adopted Namda craft form their Kashmiri counterparts, and hence the word Namda evidently has an Urdu origin.
Namda embroidery is created in a woolen yarn using natural adhesive techniques. A non-woven felting is used to produce a layered compressed wool.
Namda rugs are also used as linens, decorative and of course as sitting mats. The warm cloth is in high demand in the cold countries where these rugs work appropriately as insulators.
TANGALIA
The life style of the Gujarati community is such that the outsiders love to savor and imbibe Gujarati mannerism into their own tradition with great interest and pleasure. For instance, a handicraft called Tangalia (sarong like garment) from Surendranagar district is recognized in all over India.
Tangalia is a traditional garment worn on special occasions by the Bharvad community women. Again, a special design known as Ramraj Tangalia is most worn in the Motabhai Bharvad community.
BEADWORK
Gujarati primitive embroideries have a huge decorative value and are an inspiration to many contemporary interior designers. Toran, Pachhitpatis, Bhitiya, Chaklas, Abhala etc. are the few recognized ones.
Toran is a flap-shaped hanging decorative piece on the threshold which brings in the good luck to the house. Pachhitpatis are a similar kind of ornamentation hanging from the door corners to welcome guests and visitors.
Bhiitiya and Chaklas are wall and furniture decoratives respectively. Gujarati embroidery is specifically rich in mirror discs with well knitted silken threads called Abhala. Mainly all the decorative items have Abhala present in them.
Other well known decorative arts include Pachhitpatis (embroidered frieze) and Chaklas (embroidered square pieces) which are equally popular and creative.
DHURRIES (CARPETS)
Handmade carpets, popularly known as dhurries, embrace the art of cloth designing, color-mixing, and complex weaving. The extensive weaving to produce finest rugs, blankets and carpets is one of the most astounding ingenuity of Gujarat.
Technically, the dhurrie making process is extremely tough, demanding a very high level of intricacy and concentration as it is woven on the most primitive pit looms. But, as the global demand of the traditional durries is very high, a large number of people have accepted it as their profession.
Technically, the dhurrie making process is extremely tough, demanding a very high level of intricacy and concentration as it is woven on the most primitive pit looms. But, as the global demand of the traditional durries is very high, a large number of people have accepted it as their profession.
Patola – Patan: The Patola silk from Patan is very popular and one of the largest selling fabrics in the country. The sarees are a mark of tradition and grandeur depicting Gujarat as a land of prosperity and wealth. This is unique to Patan and is known for its utmost delicate designs woven with great expertize and quality.
Surat is popular for velvets with Patola designs. You can identify four characteristic patterns in the Patola of Gujarat woven traditionally by the Salvi community.
Surat is popular for velvets with Patola designs. You can identify four characteristic patterns in the Patola of Gujarat woven traditionally by the Salvi community.
All these patterns are unique in style and composition and they have been developed keeping in mind the actual choice of the different communities.
The weaving of Patola is done on simple traditional handlooms. The dyes employed in these fabrics are made from vegetable extracts and other natural colors. A Patola saree requires 4 to 6 months to be made on an average.
Gujarat Patola exhibits a passion for color and a deep sense for design and form. They convey a message of the state’s rich cultural heritage.
You can look for a Patola silk in the State Government Emporium of Gujarat called the ‘Gurjari’. Or you can actually walk along the muddy paths of the weavers’ villages and see yourself how laboriously are they making Patola.
ZARI
Surat in Gujarat is one of the oldest and the largest producers of zari. It is one of the major centres for the production of both gold and silver zari. This zari is utilized in making decorative borders, shoes, evening bags and many other items.
CROTCHET
Jamnagar in the state of Gujarat is one of the oldest centres for crotchet lace work, which is done by the women of the Vohra community. These women make several crotchet items for household use. These items are usually made in black, brown and white colors.
WOODEN CRAFT
Wood carving – Ahmedabad, Patan, palampur, Vaso:
Wood carving is a famous and traditional craft of Gujarat. Temples and old houses provide the best example of the richness of this craft with projecting balconies and floors of the mansions deeply carved. Wooden boxes and chests were once major dowry items. Bhavnagar can boast of the ‘patara’, a bridal chest on wooden wheels. Pethapur has its carved blocks. But, there is no need to pine for the past as doorframes, lintels, and shafts are available even now in Gurjari. Even inlay work using coloured wood, horns and even commercially viable options like plastic are used in artifacts, wooden plaques.
One of the richest regions for wood-carving is Gujarat. The cantilevered balconies of palaces in Palanpur and Bhuj have been beautifully carved while the majestic doors of traditional houses or havelis are artistic masterpieces with images of the goddess Lakshmi or the elephant deity Ganesh carved in the central portion of the archway..
The wood-carvers in Gujarat make extensive use of the parrot motif to highlight architectural features and ornament lid handles, door brackets, edges and corners of chests. Large-sized chests called pataras, from Bhavnagar in Saurashtra, is a part of the bridal trousseau, fashioned to hold bed rolls, jewellery, documents, oil and grain. Soothing colours and designs in the tin foil style are used in making furniture in Sankheda which is noted for its low seats, tables, stools and swings.
Junagadh and Doraji in Rajkot district are famous for cradles with stands, cupboards with cubicles and jhula or swing which are typical of Gujarat. The wood-carver community of Gujarat, known as the mewara mistris, work in rural and urban areas.
Wood inlay work of Surat is also famous and involves placing of pieces of ivory, plastic, horn, bone, metal, and fine wires into carved surfaces. The wood on which inlay work is done include teak rose wood, or sandalwood.
Block making – Pethapur :
Hand- block printing is practiced mostly all overIndia and every region has its own style and colour scheme. Pethapur in Gujarat remains an important centre for block printing. Today the craft is declining because of mills.
Elaborately illustrated floral or geometric motifs, over all or alternate repeats, bold or delicate patterned, block prints mark the epitome of textile design sensibility of Gujarat. Block printing is one of the oldest surfacial textile craft forms in world and Gujarat is renowned for this manifestation. The block though a tool in the printing of a textile is a work of art in itself requires great finesse and dexterity and it is a pleasure to watch a block maker at work. The magical marriage created by the transference of patterns delicately etched on a simple block of wood on to the surface of a fabric has created an especially Indian patina which is one of the highlights of world textile history.
Block making is a delightfully intricate explosion, taking into consideration the requirements of the printer while giving vent to the creative impulse of the carver. Block carving is a specialized craft form; right from the selection of the wood which is either sesame or teak, the block maker’s personal touch is evident at every step. The craftsmen work for a variety of clients and therefore his design repertoire is immeasurably vast and evolving for continuous adaptation.
The wood working tools used by the artisans are mostly designed by them. Once the block of wood is polished smooth and ready for engraving the craftsman begins his creation of deep relief work. The negative spaces have to be precise and sensitively planned as it is the block which creates the magic of the finished fabric. Blocks are made in a series according to the amount of colors, the final print will contain. This is highly skilled and meticulous process where registration points of the main block have to match with the relative blocks so that together as a group they make a whole image. Trellises, floral patterns, lehariyas, flora and fauna, geometrical abstractions and even modern indentation are dexterously etched in by the craftsmen.
SANKHEDA
While many communities revolving around Indian traditional craft have withered, the Kharadi community with its lacquered woodwork technique has in fact prospered under the modern process of markets and products. The finely applied and polished lattice work (lacquer) turns to beautiful browns and oranges after heating; it is called sankheda after its location and it is known internationally in the craft world. Take a bus or a train to reach the town and watch the artists at work or buy their craft.
Sankheda in Chhota Udepur District is known for its wooden lacquer works. The work is done on country wood, which being brown gives darker shades. It is known for its handicraft furniture. The furniture made from Teak wood. The furniture made here is exported all over the world.
WOOD WORK – HODKA, KHAVDA, LUDHIYA, NAVAVAS
The Kachchh Meghwals make beautiful wooden items with geomatirical carving that imitates motifs found in local embroidery & clay work. The male artisians use lathes and chisels to shape & engrave the product. That make traditional furnitures, boxes, book holder & coasters among other products.
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